Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
